Plumbing questions, answered
The things people ask us most — about water heaters, drains, toilets, pipes, and how we work.
Working with us
Yes. You get a clear written quote before a wrench turns, and we honor it. If something unexpected turns up behind a wall, we stop and talk to you before doing anything that would change the number.
We do. On every job that needs one we pull the permit and make the 811 utility locate call ourselves. You don’t have to arrange anything.
Yes — State of Kentucky Master Plumber License #M8334, and we carry full liability and workers’ compensation insurance. We’re happy to send certificates to any general contractor or property manager who needs them on file.
For service and residential work: Butler, Daviess, Hopkins, McLean, Muhlenberg and Ohio Counties and the surrounding areas. For multifamily or commercial projects we serve all of Central and Western Kentucky.
Yes. Call 270-363-1143 — a real person answers. If it’s an active leak, shut your main water valve off first, then call us.
Water heaters
This is usually sediment buildup in the tank. As water heaters age they accumulate sediment and lime deposits, which create a barrier between the burner and the water and cut performance. Draining a gallon or so from the tank every few months helps. The burner flame should be blue with yellow tips — if it’s mostly yellow or sooty, the flue may be clogged, which is dangerous. Have a technician look at it.
At least once every two years by a service technician. They’ll check the drain valve for signs of leakage and the anode rods for corrosion.
120°F for more than 5 minutes, 125°F for more than 2 minutes, and 130°F in about 30 seconds. If there are children or elderly family members in the home, a thermostatic mixing valve is worth installing.
The most common cause of milky water is a non-toxic iron-reducing bacteria. The simplest treatment is shock-chlorination of the system. It’s a surface treatment and heavily infected systems often need repeated trials — each step has to be followed exactly or an untreated section of pipe will re-infect the rest.
Drains & sewers
Don’t rinse fats or cooking oils down the kitchen sink — liquid fats solidify in cold pipes and create clogs. Fit every tub and shower drain with a strainer that catches hair and soap chips, and clean the strainers regularly.
In most homes the kitchen and laundry drains are connected. Lint from the laundry meets grease buildup from soap and food products and forms a nearly solid substance that blocks the line. Filters and strainers help, but the drains still need snaking periodically.
The main culprit is tree roots, and once they’ve blocked the line there’s very little you can do yourself. We can snake the line to get it as clear as possible and use copper sulfide products to kill the remaining vegetation — but odds are the sewer line will need to be replaced. We camera the line first so you know what you’re dealing with before spending money.
For minor clogs they’re fine, but never use them on a drain that is completely clogged — the caustic ingredients get trapped in your pipes and can severely damage them. Never use caustic drain openers in a drain that has a garbage disposal.
The distance between the faucet and the top of the sink or bathtub — one inch or more — is required by plumbing code. Without the gap, waste water could siphon back into the drinking supply.
Faucets, toilets & fixtures
First check the emergency shutoff under your sink to make sure it’s fully open. Deteriorating rubber washers or seals will also cost you pressure, so check those. Calcium and lime buildup in the aerator is another common cause.
Even small drips waste thousands of gallons — as much as 150 gallons a day. Check under sinks for moisture or small leaks and repair leaky faucets right away, both to avoid paying for wasted water and to avoid damage to your fixtures and pipes. Remove and clean faucet aerators annually, and make sure overflow holes on tubs and vanities are clear.
Usually yes — faucet dimensions and sink openings are fairly standard across the industry. There are a few exceptions, so check the size of the sink opening before you buy new fixtures.
Usually a bad flapper in the tank or a bad fill valve. Either one lets water seep through continuously and will run up your utility bill quickly.
At least once a year, add a small amount of red food coloring to the tank and check the bowl a little later. If the bowl water is colored, water is seeping through from the tank and the tank ball should be replaced.
Most leaks in residential plumbing are found in the toilet tank and result from worn parts or improper alignment of the flushing mechanism. Once the leak is stopped your water bill will go down.
You can have the toilet refinished, which means taking it out — so you’ll need a back-up restroom. The other option is porcelain patch: shut off the angle valve, flush until the bowl is almost empty, apply the patch, and don’t turn the water back on until it’s completely dry.
Pipes & valves
Noises are fairly common in supply lines. A loose washer in a faucet or valve rattles or knocks. If the sound happens when you open and close faucets rapidly, the pipes are usually loose and can be corrected by anchoring them more securely. Air chambers at the end of long pipe runs help, but installing them generally needs a professional.
Yes. You want to be sure it isn’t stuck open just when you have a water emergency. Do the same periodic check for the shutoff valves on your sinks, tubs and toilets.
Pressure-balancing valves prevent the sudden temperature changes caused by a toilet flushing or a sink running while you’re in the shower. A piston in the valve reacts instantly to pressure changes in the hot and cold supply lines, opening or closing inlet ports to keep the water at an even temperature. On any new shower, we recommend one.
Turn the shutoff valve under the toilet off. If there isn’t one, or it’s broken or won’t turn, shut the water off to the entire house at the main supply valve to give yourself time to assess the problem.
Always run plenty of cold water and avoid overloading it. Never put very hard items like bones or corn husks down it, and never use a caustic drain opener. If something drops inside, use tongs — never your hand. If the disposal stops working, try the reset switch on the bottom before calling anyone.
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Mon–Fri 7am–5pm · Saturday by appointment
Emergencies answered anytime